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For our second stop in Vietnam, we decided to change things up a little by swapping the chaotic streets of Hanoi for the pretty and peaceful mountains of Sapa Valley.



Trekking through Sapa


After taking an early morning bus to Sapa town, we met with our guide for the day, who was from one of Sapa's hill tribes and was dressed head to toe in traditional H'mong clothing.


After everyone in our group had met each other, he started leading us away from Sapa town’s busy little restaurants and shops to the much quieter hills where we were going to start our hike.


For the first part of the day, the weather was super cloudy. Despite all our guide’s assurances that “the views are usually incredible from here”, I started to think we wouldn't actually be able to see anything through the mist all day!


Luckily, a couple of hours later, the sun was out and we were left with nothing but stunning views of rice paddies, mountains and valleys all around.



But it wasn’t just the views in Sapa which were amazing. Meeting the people of the hill tribes along the way was an incredible experience as well.


Children from the villages were running around playing with their puppies while the women were busy dyeing fabrics and making bracelets outside their houses. Most of them actually knew our guide well, so they showed us the work they had been doing that day, and they all seemed really happy and relaxed in their everyday routines.


Towards the end of the day, our whole group split up to stay in different homestays with some families of local rice farmers. Following our guide through the paddies as the sun set was quite a surreal (but amazing) experience because I felt completely cut off from the rest of the world walking through the quiet and beautiful Vietnamese countryside.


Eventually, we arrived at our homestay for the night, where we ate a simple but tasty Vietnamese meal of rice and chicken (which our hosts insisted everyone had to eat about three bowls of!)


After dinner, our hosts also introduced us to Vietnamese rice wine (which they called ‘happy water’); a really strong spirit that tasted a lot more like vodka than wine! I got off quite lightly (along with most of the girls) but Ben had to do a lot of rice wine shots to the tune of the Vietnamese drinking song that the homestay owners taught us!


We also had quite a loud group of Polish guys sitting at our table, who ended up asking the owners for another full bottle of happy water, so it ended up being a pretty messy night for some of the group! Still, after a full day of trekking, everyone was asleep by about midnight.


The next day, we woke up bright and early and got ready to trek through Sapa again.


The first place our lovely guide Sue (or maybe Xiu – we never saw it written down) took us was a beautiful waterfall, where our whole group spent the morning swimming, climbing the rocks and enjoying the amazing views.



Us and our guide at the pools by the waterfall

In terms of the trekking, this day was a little tougher because it was really hot outside and even hillier than the day before. But the views over the valleys were also better than ever.



On our last night, we stayed in a different homestay run by another family of H’mong rice farmers. That night, we all had to sleep on lines of rock hard mattresses in one room next to each other - making it probably the least comfy night we've had so far in Asia! - but we were lucky to have a friendly and chatty group with us again so it still ended up being a fun night.


Our entire stay in Sapa has felt like a really authentic rural experience. After staying in busy Hanoi for the last few days, it’s been great to switch things up and see two really different sides to the country already.


I’ve loved the few days we’ve had here in Sapa but now it’s time to head south towards Ha Long Bay, where the views will hopefully be just as amazing!

After hearing so many amazing stories from friends who have travelled here before, I was really excited to be finally seeing Vietnam for myself. Ben was looking forward to arriving in Hanoi too because he'd already spent some time here last year with his family and loved it so much he wanted to come back again!


We first arrived near Hoàn Kiem lake in the centre of the Old Quarter, which looked so beautiful and oriental when it was all lit up at sunset that I think I probably had the best first impression of the city possible.

Hoàn Kiem lake at sunset

As we walked away from the lake, Hanoi quickly became a much more bustling, noisy and chaotic place to be. Hanoi is apparently home to about 10 million people and the streets here are just as loud and busy as you’d expect them to be in such a heavily populated Asian city.


One thing in particular that could take me a while to get used to is the way people cross the roads here. You just have to walk straight into the heavy motorbike traffic and let the crowds swerve around you!


I'm probably not painting the prettiest picture of Hanoi but, as I soon found out, there are so many fun things to do in this city, so many cool places to visit and so much good food to try!


Ben & I at Hoàn Kiem lake

Sightseeing in Hanoi


On our first full day in Hanoi, we tried to catch up on some Vietnamese history by going to the Hoa Lo Prison and then taking a look at the memorial of Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam’s beloved ex-leader).


We also had a tour with a student from Hanoi Kids; a really great organisation run by Vietnamese University students looking to practice their English by showing tourists around the city for free.


Our guide was really friendly (as they all have been) and showed us around a traditional Vietnamese house, the famous Qúan Sú temple, the Hanoi Opera House and the city cathedral before taking us to get some delicious coconut ice cream in the city centre.


That evening, we also wandered around the chaotic Weekend Night Market, which seems to go on forever and really does sell everything!


Trying Vietnamese food


When you're travelling with a foodie who loves trying and cooking food from different cultures, you're definitely going to be introduced to lots of new and exciting things to eat. I'm sometimes a little pickier than Ben but I've been loving trying new things out here and all the Vietnamese food we've had so far has been so much better than I thought it would be!


Street food is really popular here – and I can definitely see why. Eating out feels like a really social experience because the streets are packed with people sitting on little plastic chairs and eating lots of tapas-style mini dishes together. When we went out to try the food in Hanoi's busy Old Quarter, we had some papaya salad with dried beef, pork nuggets with sweet chilli and fresh vegetable spring rolls - and everything tasted amazing.


In restaurants, we’ve also tried banh mi (flavourful Vietnamese baguette sandwiches), bun cha (grilled pork with rice noodles) and phô (beef noodle soup). My favourite has definitely been the banh mi sandwiches, and since they usually sell for less than £1 (in Vietnamese Dong) we've basically eaten them every day we’ve been here.


Ben eating some bun cha in the busiest restaurant ever

We also took the Hanoi Kids free food tour with some more lovely Vietnamese University students on our first night, who showed us the best food both on the streets and in restaurants – as well as how to eat it properly!


Our guides finished by introducing us to Vietnam’s famous coffee chain Công Caphe, which sell iced coconut coffee drinks that basically taste like sweet coffee milkshakes. I'm now obsessed with coconut coffee and have been ordering it whenever I can!


Views of Hanoi's Old Quarter from Công Caphe

A typical crossing in Hanoi!

Although it’s definitely been a bit of a culture surprise (shock seems like too strong a word!), I’ve really enjoyed the last couple of days we've had here in Hanoi. I’m excited to work our way down the country from here and see what else Vietnam has in store.



  • Writer: Esther
    Esther
  • Nov 1, 2018
  • 1 min read

After an amazing couple of days on Nusa Penida island, we headed back to Ubud, where we'd pre-booked a hotel for my birthday.


On my 23rd, I had a really chilled morning at the spa (my birthday present!) and around our beautiful hotel, the Sayan Terrace Resort, where we had a really cool infinity pool and views of the jungle from our room.



Jungle views from the hotel's infinity pool and our room

This time around, we also got a chance to do Ubud's famous Campuhan Ridge Walk - a paved trail through the rice paddies - and catch another incredible sunset there.


Sunset on the Campuhan Ridge Walk

Because my birthday's on Halloween, we also went to a ‘trick or treat’ cocktail and canapé tasting event in one of Ubud’s hotels, which was a really cool experience. For each of the six different drinks and matching canapês, the chef came out to the balcony and explained exactly what they were and why they worked together.


After that, we went for dinner at an amazing Japanese Latin fusion restaurant called The Sayan House, which did incredible sushi and had the best view over the jungle as well.


'Trick or treat' cocktails and canapés

Our hotel also happened to be right next to Ubud’s Four Seasons, and when we stopped by there after dinner for a cocktail, the staff surprised me with a song and free chocolate cake!


It was a really nice end to a super relaxing birthday - and an amazing time in Bali overall.


Birthday cake at the Four Seasons!

The Sayan Terrace Resort being cute

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